Ornatus-Mundi
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Hands on with Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon
Now, this is our next eye-opening model: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in WHITE!
Who could have expected it? We are so used to the black models across the board globally, but white models are getting popularity. But this white and greyish combination model is so nice. Not Panda, but really Spartan look sports watch, indeed.
Who could have expected it? We are so used to the black models across the board globally, but white models are getting popularity. But this white and greyish combination model is so nice. Not Panda, but really Spartan look sports watch, indeed.
First some short contextual information:
Originally presented 12 years ago (!), the Concept Watch 1 (CW1), a groundbreaking timepiece designed to honour the 30th anniversary of the iconic Royal Oak model line, has given rise to an entire collection of advant-gard timepieces. Indeed, the Concept Royal Oaks have already developed into veritable classics on their own right:
BTW, we have a very intelligently written article on the CW1 put together by Thomas Mao, please click here to read it!
The Concept watches are intended to serve as proof-of-principle for AP's (or better: Renaud & Papi's) seemingly unlimited creativity. Exotic materials, avant-garde constructions and designs are due to be evaluated - in real life (e.g. on the wrists of consumer) - in this series of extremely limited watches.
The new 2014 model is still the same but at the same time new: new design (dark and bright), new (for the collection) materials, but (almost) same set of complication/features:
• Design: white against a dark background, very powerful and contrasty
• Materials: brushed titanium and white ceramics
• Complications: Like its ancestor, we still have the tourbillon to the left...
... BUT: a circular 24h/day&night indicator (instead the linear power reserve display on the CW1) and ...
... the crown function indicator at 6 o'clock (note how finely even this hand reflects the overall design theme of the watch!):
Why the function indicator? Well, in idle mode ('n'=normal) the crown spins freely without connection to the clockwork such as to prevent any stress to the crown pinion or the movement itself. A push to the pusher at 4 o'clock assigns a function to the crown: 'r'=winding (rémontage), 'h'=time setting (heure: hour).
As for the(44mm) case, we could not express it better than Thomas Mao some 12 years ago:
Flip-siding the watch we can admire the AP calibre 2930 in its full majesty:
What immediately stands out is the symmetry of the movement's front- and backsides - same structures, same elements - well done!
"The main case body itself has been evolved subtly yet distinctly - the sharp, austere edges and flat expanses of the original Royal Oak have been softened with gently rolling surfaces, the oblique geometry extending the transitions of the upper and lower sides of the octagonal bezel all the way to the lugs, for a more integrated continuation of the trademark shape."
Flip-siding the watch we can admire the AP calibre 2930 in its full majesty:
What immediately stands out is the symmetry of the movement's front- and backsides - same structures, same elements - well done!
Time to get closer:
It boasts with impressive technical details:
Tourbillon with variable inertia screws and Breguet balance, 237h power reserve (corresponds to almost 10 days!). Total number of parts is 291 (85 in the tourbillon cage). We've been told that one watchmaker needs almost three days to assemble the movement, and two of those are required just to assemble & install the tourbillon cage.
Tourbillon with variable inertia screws and Breguet balance, 237h power reserve (corresponds to almost 10 days!). Total number of parts is 291 (85 in the tourbillon cage). We've been told that one watchmaker needs almost three days to assemble the movement, and two of those are required just to assemble & install the tourbillon cage.
The movement is dominated by a few bold bridges contrasted by rhodinated wheels and of course the jewels.
With the 'right' light the effect comes to full play:
Fantastic details such as the mainspring click...
Design, construction, materials and finishing - every aspect matches the others.
This ease of wear is partly attributable to the use of the light case material (titanoum) and to the well fought-through attachment and design of the white rubber strap, which folds naturally around even smaller wrists. White strap – should be really nice by the sea… or wherever you are off-time.
Fantastic details such as the mainspring click...
... or the large, chatonised ruby of the tourbillon bearing:
Design, construction, materials and finishing - every aspect matches the others.
But even more one is surprised if the timepiece is finally strapped on:
Too Large? Too futuristic? Too bold?
Too Large? Too futuristic? Too bold?
We would certainly reject each and every of the above concerns! In fact it is very comfortable on the wrist and probably one of the most “sporty” and sophisticated objects for the wrist – available today. Very nice indeed even on smallish wrists like ours. A little bit thick at 16.06mm, though. We may need a new shirt or two ... ;-)
The accent on the dial – white ceramic pattern is also eye catching and pleasing.
The accent on the dial – white ceramic pattern is also eye catching and pleasing.
This ease of wear is partly attributable to the use of the light case material (titanoum) and to the well fought-through attachment and design of the white rubber strap, which folds naturally around even smaller wrists. White strap – should be really nice by the sea… or wherever you are off-time.
Several watch resources claimed that the watch is too large to wear - probably the authors have never seen the watch in the metal, never strapped it on but only read: 44mm ... ;-)
As for the deployant, let's listen again to Thomas:
As for the deployant, let's listen again to Thomas:
"Audemars Piguet has designed one of the most stunningly beautiful, watch-head-complementary buckles I have ever seen...I was instantly smitten, and even now, several days later and many thousands of miles away, I can still clearly see the sleek techno-aero design in my mind's eye."
As a summary let us again cite what Thomas Mao wrote on the CW1:
"A tough, extreme sports type of watch that also pays homage to the traditionally delicate world of haute horlogerie, the CW1 proudly carries on what the original Royal Oak started in 1972 - a neat concept that has successfully transitioned to the real world."
Exchange 'CW1' for 'Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon' - the above statement still very valid. Enough said!
Pro:
- A groundbreaking collection gets its own creative lab
- Striking, comprehensive design encompassing technology, aesthetics and materials
- Strong character due to colour scheme
- Additional credit points for outstanding Coolness
Con:
- Definitely on the larger side (but well wearable)
- Unusual design, not an instant beauty, needs time to appreciate
- One has to get used to the crown function
More posts:
SIHH 2014 Audemars Piguet - in-depth view of the collection.
We (Magnus & Oliver) would like to provide you with our – subjective – in-depth impressions of Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 novelties – particularly the latest accession to the Audemars Piguet Millenary collection and a few new members of the Audemars Pi...
Hands on with Millenary Minute Repeater
Is it a real novelty or just a new variation of something outstanding? …… To us, the Millenary Minute Repeater in red gold is AP’s highlight of the show this year. We have lots to talk about this. We were cheating a bit: technically, the AP Millenary Minu...
A superb watch...
Well, I love the Millenary... not all, the 4101 and the MR... and I was seduced by the beauty of this complicated watch. The sound is pure but its volume could have been improved IMHO. Thanks! Fx
Did you have the chance to compare the chiming sound ...
... of this golden version with the titanium one? I consider this to be among the most attractive repeaters on the market, and design-wise, I prefer the solid, heat-blued hands over the skeletonized ones of the titanium version. Thanks for presenting this...
We would have loved to compare...
but unfortunately there was no titanium version available. But, judging from our experience with chiming watches (e.g. the Blancpain GMT Reveil) titanium has some amazing acoustic properties to exploit. So, yes, a comparison would be great fun! Thanks, Ma...
Marcus, I had the pleasure to listen ...
to the Ti version some years ago. From my memory I would say the Ti versions was louder but the RG version had a warmer sound and was more to my taste. Still I would like to listen to them side by side, one day :-) Oliver
Hands on with Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon
Now, this is our next eye-opening model: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in WHITE! Who could have expected it? We are so used to the black models across the board globally, but white models are getting popularity. But this white and g...
I was a bit afraid by the white colour...
and at the end... it works well thanks to the contrast it creates! A very appealing watch despite its very large size (and the shape of the strap). Fx
Hands on with Royal Oak Offshore 42mm – latest evolutions
Those were the days ...! 21 years ago AP shocked the watch world with a new watch, unprecedented: the (then!) humongous 42mm Royal Oak Offshore . A strong watch, heavy, with presence thanks to the prominent use of rubberised accents (bezal seal, pushers, ...
The most important watches for AP this year.
And for me, a super evolution of the ROO 42mm. I love the blue version and in each case... the improved perceived quality. Thanks for the pics and words! Fx
The ROO on bracelet is out of this world.
A great new update to this classic. I'm definitely saving these pics for future viewing!
Hands on with Royal Oak Ref. 15402 and 26322 – 41mm, pink gold - diamondised
Let's start (again) with a look back into AP's history - which proves one fact: Watches for women have a long and strong history at Audemars Piguet! Two novelties were presented this year, both in 41mm and with admirable gem-setting work, the Royal Oak Au...
Hands on with Royal Oak Offshore Ref. 67540 – 37mm
Lastly we have the most affordable lady’s Royal Oak in the line-up: the Royal Oak Offshore Quartz : 37mm diameter, 11.1mm thickness, stainless steel or rose gold case. The diamond-set bezel and crown are both rubber-clad. Again, here are white dial and (r...
Wow!
Hey, these new simple ladies' models are REALLY interesting! I would love a men's version of this. Get rid of the diamonds, add a mechanical movement, maybe give the option of a ceramic bezel instead of rubber. Done - you have a very cool, minimal men's s...
Audemars Piguet @ SIHH 2014 - conclusion
Audemars Piguet has once more demonstrated what it takes to keep a truly classic collection alive, the Royal Oak : develop the core ( Royal Oak ), add an avant-garde segment ( Concept Watch ), and add spice to the Offshore sports offerings. This allows a ...
A successful transitional year...
The key watches are the new version of the Offshore. You have to see the smile on the faces of the AD to understand that these 6 watches meet their expectations! And the other watches are surprising enough to bring an additional interest. But now... we wa...
It was really fun....
... and I did just a little. You two have done a tremendous job here. Thank you for that! I happened to have an opportunity to handle some of the novelties at Ginza Boutique and I will post the pics as the follow-up to yours in time. Thanks again. Like yo...
Any details on the two 44mm ROO?
Specifically the new black ceramic with anthracite dail.
Unfortunately not ...
as this report is only about watches we have seen in the metal. Sorry! By the way, welcome at PuristSPro! Oliver
Unfortunately we have not seen these...
as our appointment seemed to be a bit squeezed in … ;-) Still, we are happy with what we could catch. In the meantime, may we refer you to Thomas Mao's post on the ceramic watches? Just click here: CLICK Best, Magnus
Thanks! Saw that thread.
But most of it is on the white ceramic which looks beautiful, but it's not for me. From the limited info/pics I can dig up on the net, I'm digging the anthracite dial, give the black ceramic more pop and contrast.
FC is a really nice watch!!
I had the same problem but i was between the stainless steel and the forged carbon. The only recommendation I can tell you is to try both on and the one that fits you better thats the one!! Did that and think i did a good decision!! Best!
Magnus, Oliver, and Ken - THANK YOU!! Incredible report on Audemars Piguet @ SIHH2014!
Outstanding coverage gentlemen. Thanks for taking the time to bring forth this most comprehensive report! It reveals many details for all of us.
View of the AP SIHH collection
Thanks Oliver and Magnus for sharing this in-depth view of the AP SIHH watches. Great photos as usual. I agree witht that it would have been nice to see a surprise piece like a starwheel but perhaps they are saving it for a later date. Regards, ED-209
