Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
Hands on with Millenary Minute Repeater
Is it a real novelty or just a new variation of something outstanding? ……
To us, the Millenary Minute Repeater in red gold is AP’s highlight of the show this year. We have lots to talk about this.
We were cheating a bit: technically, the AP Millenary Minute Repeater is not a new watch, it existed already as a limited Titanium model with an anthracite dial:
The technical parameters are all the same: 47mm width, 15.79mm thickness. Obvious differences: red gold case ...
... magnificent fired enamel dial - and the big blue(s): heat-blued hands, blued gongs - drool!
The Audemars Piguet Calibre 2928 is worth an extra look:
At a diameter of 37.90 mm this thoroughbred modern minute repeater calibre is driven by the proprietary AP escapement. This escapement is designed to run lubricant-free and ensures excellent efficiency and superior shock-resistance. Power reserve is 165 hours (almost a week). Highlight is the variable-inertia balance fitted with inertia-blocks, operating at a frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz) Hz, prominently presented on the dial:
Back to the watch. It comes with the typical large oval Millenary case that has some very sharp details:
The most obvious (and most coveted) for us connoisseurs is certainly the minute repeater lever. Its operation is smooth and the sound is, well it really depends on the taste of each but to our ears, warm and thought it is definitely the “better” one in the market today.
The crown is nice to look at and a pleasure to handle, because of its size.
Most of the movements "intestinal" parts are located "ventrally" (especially gong and hammer which can be seen from the dial side), the "dorsal" side's finish and design (a big bridge covers everything) makes sense. There is still something interesting and beautiful to appreciate:
The crown is nice to look at and a pleasure to handle, because of its size.
Most of the movements "intestinal" parts are located "ventrally" (especially gong and hammer which can be seen from the dial side), the "dorsal" side's finish and design (a big bridge covers everything) makes sense. There is still something interesting and beautiful to appreciate:
AP has chosen to utilise the back of the watch to illustrate their finishing capabilities in an almost monochrome sea of rhodium:
The movement is dominated by a few serially arranged gears on a background of generously applied horizontal Côtes de Genève. As accents, both technically and aesthetically as well as in terms of colour, AP chose to highlight large rubies with screwed chatons:
They are not historical references like with many other watches, but total contemporary interpretations of an old theme: bold, monochrome, a bit industrial. Go very well together with the adjacent grey sunburst wheels. Note that even their flanges are sunbursted:
They are not historical references like with many other watches, but total contemporary interpretations of an old theme: bold, monochrome, a bit industrial. Go very well together with the adjacent grey sunburst wheels. Note that even their flanges are sunbursted:
Wrist-time: what shall we say? Difficult to criticise a masterpiece...
The case is quite large but wears smaller. AP found a magic "formula" with the white enamel dial only partly covering the surface, and with several elements giving it sufficient depth to avoid the impression of dark holes but at the same time not overly complicating the appearance.
A small but important detail is the dial executed with great attention and subtleness. Note the indices and inscriptions raised minuscully:
Its still a watch of some thickness, but the overall blend of details keeps this well in check. Only the lugs are a tiny give-away that complexity often comes with demands ...
AP did a tremendous job in balancing each aspect of the case such that even people with smaller wrists won't find the watch obtrusive:
Pro:
• Excellent admixture of timekeeping innovations and watchmaking art
• Impressive demonstration of attention to details (dial, blend of elements)
• These blue details...!
Con:
• Definitely on the large side
• not water resistant (but who really cares?)
More posts:
SIHH 2014 Audemars Piguet - in-depth view of the collection.
We (Magnus & Oliver) would like to provide you with our – subjective – in-depth impressions of Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 novelties – particularly the latest accession to the Audemars Piguet Millenary collection and a few new members of the Audemars Pi...
Hands on with Millenary Minute Repeater
Is it a real novelty or just a new variation of something outstanding? …… To us, the Millenary Minute Repeater in red gold is AP’s highlight of the show this year. We have lots to talk about this. We were cheating a bit: technically, the AP Millenary Minu...
A superb watch...
Well, I love the Millenary... not all, the 4101 and the MR... and I was seduced by the beauty of this complicated watch. The sound is pure but its volume could have been improved IMHO. Thanks! Fx
Did you have the chance to compare the chiming sound ...
... of this golden version with the titanium one? I consider this to be among the most attractive repeaters on the market, and design-wise, I prefer the solid, heat-blued hands over the skeletonized ones of the titanium version. Thanks for presenting this...
We would have loved to compare...
but unfortunately there was no titanium version available. But, judging from our experience with chiming watches (e.g. the Blancpain GMT Reveil) titanium has some amazing acoustic properties to exploit. So, yes, a comparison would be great fun! Thanks, Ma...
Marcus, I had the pleasure to listen ...
to the Ti version some years ago. From my memory I would say the Ti versions was louder but the RG version had a warmer sound and was more to my taste. Still I would like to listen to them side by side, one day :-) Oliver
Hands on with Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon
Now, this is our next eye-opening model: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in WHITE! Who could have expected it? We are so used to the black models across the board globally, but white models are getting popularity. But this white and g...
I was a bit afraid by the white colour...
and at the end... it works well thanks to the contrast it creates! A very appealing watch despite its very large size (and the shape of the strap). Fx
Hands on with Royal Oak Offshore 42mm – latest evolutions
Those were the days ...! 21 years ago AP shocked the watch world with a new watch, unprecedented: the (then!) humongous 42mm Royal Oak Offshore . A strong watch, heavy, with presence thanks to the prominent use of rubberised accents (bezal seal, pushers, ...
The most important watches for AP this year.
And for me, a super evolution of the ROO 42mm. I love the blue version and in each case... the improved perceived quality. Thanks for the pics and words! Fx
The ROO on bracelet is out of this world.
A great new update to this classic. I'm definitely saving these pics for future viewing!
Hands on with Royal Oak Ref. 15402 and 26322 – 41mm, pink gold - diamondised
Let's start (again) with a look back into AP's history - which proves one fact: Watches for women have a long and strong history at Audemars Piguet! Two novelties were presented this year, both in 41mm and with admirable gem-setting work, the Royal Oak Au...
Hands on with Royal Oak Offshore Ref. 67540 – 37mm
Lastly we have the most affordable lady’s Royal Oak in the line-up: the Royal Oak Offshore Quartz : 37mm diameter, 11.1mm thickness, stainless steel or rose gold case. The diamond-set bezel and crown are both rubber-clad. Again, here are white dial and (r...
Wow!
Hey, these new simple ladies' models are REALLY interesting! I would love a men's version of this. Get rid of the diamonds, add a mechanical movement, maybe give the option of a ceramic bezel instead of rubber. Done - you have a very cool, minimal men's s...
Audemars Piguet @ SIHH 2014 - conclusion
Audemars Piguet has once more demonstrated what it takes to keep a truly classic collection alive, the Royal Oak : develop the core ( Royal Oak ), add an avant-garde segment ( Concept Watch ), and add spice to the Offshore sports offerings. This allows a ...
A successful transitional year...
The key watches are the new version of the Offshore. You have to see the smile on the faces of the AD to understand that these 6 watches meet their expectations! And the other watches are surprising enough to bring an additional interest. But now... we wa...
It was really fun....
... and I did just a little. You two have done a tremendous job here. Thank you for that! I happened to have an opportunity to handle some of the novelties at Ginza Boutique and I will post the pics as the follow-up to yours in time. Thanks again. Like yo...
Any details on the two 44mm ROO?
Specifically the new black ceramic with anthracite dail.
Unfortunately not ...
as this report is only about watches we have seen in the metal. Sorry! By the way, welcome at PuristSPro! Oliver
Unfortunately we have not seen these...
as our appointment seemed to be a bit squeezed in … ;-) Still, we are happy with what we could catch. In the meantime, may we refer you to Thomas Mao's post on the ceramic watches? Just click here: CLICK Best, Magnus
Thanks! Saw that thread.
But most of it is on the white ceramic which looks beautiful, but it's not for me. From the limited info/pics I can dig up on the net, I'm digging the anthracite dial, give the black ceramic more pop and contrast.
FC is a really nice watch!!
I had the same problem but i was between the stainless steel and the forged carbon. The only recommendation I can tell you is to try both on and the one that fits you better thats the one!! Did that and think i did a good decision!! Best!
Magnus, Oliver, and Ken - THANK YOU!! Incredible report on Audemars Piguet @ SIHH2014!
Outstanding coverage gentlemen. Thanks for taking the time to bring forth this most comprehensive report! It reveals many details for all of us.
View of the AP SIHH collection
Thanks Oliver and Magnus for sharing this in-depth view of the AP SIHH watches. Great photos as usual. I agree witht that it would have been nice to see a surprise piece like a starwheel but perhaps they are saving it for a later date. Regards, ED-209
