Audemars Piguet

The following photos were snapped in the rather direct boutique lighting and the sample's case is wrapped in plastic.

While not typically attracted to colored gold watches, I have always found the combination of pink gold and grey to be a highly attractive match. So compositionally, I find this new Offshore creation very alluring.  The pink gold used by AP is 18-carat.  The bezel is executed in brushed titanium.  The edition is limited to 600 pieces.

Let's start with the obvious - at first glance, this watch appears very similar to the 48mm Royal Oak Offshore Legacy. It certainly crossed my mind immediately when I saw it. Naysayers will say "it's just another variation in a smaller case". As I'll now point out, there are many differences between the watches, and taking those into account, I do feel AP has created a unique watch that stands on its own. 

The inner bezel on this watch is completely new. The "tachymetre" scale we typically see on Offshore Chronographs has been omitted. Instead, a crisply finished seconds / minute track appears with 1/5th second markings and luminous rectangles at every 5 minutes. It is quite attractive. Further detailing this bezel is a thin white line that has been painted on the inner most area. It really serves to frame the dial when you look at the watch. The subdials themselves are also new for AP. Very reminescent of the older 25770 Offshore subdials, but with a much refined font. I love them.

Sandwiched between the outer pink gold crown guard assembly and pink gold case is an area treated with grey rubber.

There is quite a bit of depth to the applied gold numerals. The subdials are nicely recessed into the metal dial.  The aperture for the date wheel reveals a machined gold ring to match the 3 subdials.

At the launch event it was difficult to discern the exact shade of blue used on the chronograph hands. You can see the accurate color in this photo:

A shot which captures all of the new details at once. The new inner bezel really is an outstanding detail. You will also notice a new detailing to the numerals themselves. The ones used on the Legacy are more simple and lack the extra detailing employed here.

One issue for me with this dial - perhaps the biggest issue, is the manner in which "AUDEMARS PIGUET" is positioned between the date cutout and numeral 4. It looks jammed to me, just as it does on the Legacy. At least here the new style "4" does not appear as chopped as it does on the Legacy, but I still do not like it. I think an AP logo can fit to the left of the date window (with or without the company name), a curved "AUDEMARS PIGUET" could fit at 12 in lieu of that marker, etc. Other ways to better handle this detail, IMO.

Now let's get to my favorite aspect of this watch - the 44mm notched case!  This is a completely new case for the 44mm collection.

Similar to the Legacy, the area between the lugs is recessed, and the case metal has a blasted finish here.  It looks flat out awesome, and I certainly hope we see more 44mm models made with this design.  Now, there is a drastic difference on this particular notched case model, which unfortunately eliminates one of its previously available functions - the flexible strap attachment to the case.  On other notched case Offshores, including the most recent notched case Offshore Legacy, the straps are in no way held in a rigid fashion to the case.  They connect to the lugs around a circular bar and or screws and that is it.  Well, on this LeBron James version, a metal structure has been added to the strap and it recesses to the case when attached.  It results in a very similar feel to a normal plotted Offshore.  You cannot open up this strap and set the watch down flat on a surface.  The strap does not rotate freely between the lugs.

Why is this important?  Given the large size of this watch, a more pliable connection to the case allows for smaller wrists to still find comfort.  Such wrists will need to try it on and see how it feels.  Surely it looks very nice to be fitted so tight to the case, but I would rather have a small concession made here so the strap can adapt to more wearers.

The caseback is open and features LBJ's signature in blue on the sapphire crystal.  This color matches the chronograph counters hands.  A few other noteworthy things in this photo - first, the inside of the strap is finished just like the outside.  Second, for the first time, titanium screws have been used to secure the caseback in the watch assembly.  You can see "T1" printed on one of them.

A couple of shots of the diamond set start/stop pusher.  This detail will be quite polarizing I'm sure.  Keep in mind LeBron requested the addition of the diamonds to bring some "bling" to the watch.  I do not see it as a deal breaker for me, and while I understand its inclusion, it is not something I would enjoying seeing on my wrist.

On the technical side, you owe it to yourself to see how finely AP sets diamonds if you never have before.  I gained an appreciation for this art as I handled diamond encrusted Audemars Piguet watches at SIHH earlier in the year.

The packaging is also new for this limited edition and features grey leather.  It seemed to be sized the same as other recent LEs I'm familiar with, like the Trulli, Grand Prix, and Schumacher.

LeBron's signature appears on the inner lid in blue.

The watch will also include a second perforated rubber strap in grey.  Keep in mind the strap is unique to this watch and is not currently compatible with any other existing models.

Going back to the notched case and how the strap is held in place, you can really understand it by looking at the following photo.  The metal structure notches into the case between the lugs, and that is why the straps hold so stiff to the case.

An approximation of what this strap will look like mounted to the case:

On the wrist I really like the watch.  More than I expected too.  It's comfort was fine, but I know it would be better on my wrist if the strap were not as rigid to the case.  Still, it fit me well enough to not be a concern.  The wide strap is secured with a 18-carat pink gold tang buckle, and the combination is far more comfortable than the AP deployant straps on my wrist.

The watch looks classy and robust at the same time.  It has a certain level of refinement without question, and the unique color palette is interesting.

Will this watch be for everyone?  Of course not, and that is perfectly OK.  While some criticize AP's Limited Editions and who they make them in association with, this partnership with LeBron James is worthy of a dedicated edition.  And as outlined above, whether the watch appeals to you or not, it does bring forth many new details that do not allow it to be dubbed "another variation" of an existing watch.  I believe a number of the buyers who acquire this timepiece will not be "watch people" but perhaps big fans of LBJ and basketball.  It is a very successful design based upon the criteria for which it was created.

What else to say?  Inspired by the King, realized by the Masters at AP.

More posts: Grand PrixLaptimer Michael SchumacherLebron JamesRoyal OakRoyal Oak ConceptRoyal Oak Offshore

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