Audemars Piguet

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My view on the Royal Oak Chronograph Leo Messi (Platinum)

 The new Royal Oak Chronograph was presented during the 2012 SIHH. The case size increase (to reach a 41 mm diameter) is the main change when compared with the previous version without forgetting the  faceted hands and indexes which bring a touch of subtlety on the dial.

The limited edition "Leo Messi" is the first evolution of this new base and it creates a clear difference aesthetically speaking with the original chronograph by abandoning one of the ingredients that made the legend of the Royal Oak: the "Grande Tapisserie" pattern. Of course, in this kind of situation, the world is divided into two parts. Some will applaud this approach which gives a new dimension to the Royal Oak with the smooth and brushed dial. And others will cry foul considering the pattern as an inseparable element of the Royal Oak design.





Honestly speaking, I belong to the first category and I will explain why. Indeed, I was not very seduced by the new version of the chronograph when it was released a few months ago. Due to the case size increase, the movement remaining the same (automatic caliber 2385, in other words the Frédéric Piguet 1185), the watch lost a bit its balance, the subdials and date display being located too far from the bezel for my taste. Actually, I considered the previous Chronograph, in its 39 mm case as a model of harmony and a perfect example of the ability of the Royal Oak to integrate complications without losing the strength of its design.





The limited edition "Leo Messi" fits much better in this new size. This is due to several details that define the particular character of this chronograph and which give it a special place in the Audemars Piguet collection.
Available in 3 different case materials (Stainless Steel, Pink Gold and Platinum), in each case, it uses a brushed dial. The dark color of the dial (anthracite for the Pink Gold and Stainless Steel versions, dark blue for the Platinum one)  enables a better integration of the date window which appears to be less lost on the dial. Moreover, brushed finish brings a lot of elegance, creating beautiful reflections of light.





The way the 3 sub-dials are decorated also contributes to this positive feeling: the brushed silvered rings around the 3 sub-dials brings a sophisticated touch to the watch. They visually reinforce their presence and tend to rebalance the dial.

And it is impossible not to mention one of the key characteristics of this LE: the tantalum bezel slightly contrats with the case (in the Stainless Steel and Platinum versions) depending on how the light illuminates the watch. This combo of materials (I was going to use the word of "fusion" which defines better the  Audemars Piguet spirit but it is too linked to another brand now) makes us think about to the Royal Oak Offshore, not to  the Royal Oak. However, thanks to the harmony of the shades, the very light contrast between the brushed dark dial and the bezel, the use of different materials for the case and the bezel works very well in the context of the Royal Oak "Leo Messi".





The bezel stands out clearly on the Pink Gold version but it creates a nice combo with the  warm atmosphere of the case. The low and soft contrast brought by the bezel in the Stainless Steel and Platinum versions  breaks the uniformity of the colours while maintaining the whole homogeneity. Tantalum is a heavy material with delicate grey and blue shades. This is the reason why, if I had to choose between the 3 versions, my favorite would be without any doubt the Platinum one. The deep blue brushed dial combines ideally with the bezel and the weight of the watch is very pleasant to feel on the wrist (I have to confess that I much prefer the watches with heavy weights especially when they are expensive...).





The caseback is solid what is perhaps a pity because despite the football context, the watch plays on the territory of elegance. This is not the least of its paradoxes. While we could have expected a specific ROO to celebrate Leo Messei, this limited series leads, for our greatest pleasure, to a very refined watch and perhaps more "black tie" than the model that served as the base. I find this idea delightful while in recent years, the industry has seen watches related to the football at the edge of caricature, some even having integrated pieces of lawn on their dials. It is therefore more a tribute to the fantastic skills and unique gestures of the argentinian player than to the less distinguished atmosphere of some stands...





The reference to Leo Messi is very discreetly inserted on the caseback: even the hardcore fans of the Real Madrid would be able to wear this watch, at least theoretically, without becoming ill!
In the mechanical point of view, as expected, the Leo Messi chronograph is powered by the Frédéric Piguet 1185, characterized by its very thin height. It is obviously still not an in -house movement but unlike different calibers of the Royal Oak Offshore, it is at least an integrated chronograph movement. Its frequency is 3 Hz and its power reserve is 40 hours which is a little short nowadays.
On the wrist, the Platinum Leo Messi surprises by its  weight, the weight being  mainly concentrated in the case due to the leather strap while with metal bracelet watches, the weight is  better spread. This weight concentration is very pleasant  because I like to feel the heavy weight of precious metals. However, such a configuration will not please to everybody and a live test is mandatory to fully appreciate the behaviour and the comfort on the wrist.










With this LE "Leo Messi", Audemars Piguet managed to create a clever evolution  of its Royal Oak chronograph by giving it a more dressed and subtle dimension. The brushed dial, the silvered rings, the tantalum bezel create a special atmosphere that makes this LE very attractive. Audemars Piguet avoided the trap to create a watch with obvious references to football and so achieved to design a timepiece that will seduce a wider clients base than purely football fans or fans of the player.

The Royal Oak Chronograph Leo Messi is available in 500 pieces in Stainless Steel/tantalum, in 400 pieces in Pink Gold/tantalum and in 100 pieces in Platinum/tantalum.

Thanks to the team of the Audemars Piguet boutique in Paris.
 
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